Wednesday, April 24, 2013

May 2013 Updates




May 2013 - Updates

Since the prior blog post, the car has take a new direction. The original thought of using the supplied "Roaring Forties" (Kit car) parts was tossed out the window. And while the exterior will still look like the original (mostly)... under the "hood" will be all custom. This will include quick disconnect fittings on all significant plumbing and electrical lines, modern day electronics (ie: gagues, voltage regulation [no fusebox], LEDs) etc...



 Rear End Updates:

Custom built and fitted water lines to front of car to radiator. Gold tips are quick disconnects for ease to swap engines, or switch lines without water spilling.

Fuel lines to and from both gas tanks, low pressure (x2) and high pressure fuel pumps installed
 

 Electrical:
Quick discconects and bulkhead fittings are complete throughout all the car. 

Here are the 2 gauge fittings(blue&green) that will run to the engine for the starter, alternator and ground cable. 


 Front End Updates:

Sheet metal covering (which covers the brake pedal, steering linkage etc) was replaced for plexiglass to allow for better troubleshooting and observation. Master cylinders resiviour was uniquely mounted within the plexiglass. Air intake for A/C blower was scrapped and replaced with a cone filter (mounted through removable plexiglass, above previously mentioned resiviour). Fuse box has been scrapped for better alternatives (more to come). 




Previous uprights were scrapped in favor of using Indy/Lola uprights


Brake bias (red knob and wire running to brake pedals) installed. This allows you to adjust how much pressure is applied to the brakes (more to front or rear). 


 Engine Prep:
A full sized (plastic) mock up of the 351W has been used to prepare to the install of the BEAST!
 
 
(the engine is upside down FYI... to avoid things from getting down inside of it)

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

The Goal: Build a 1966 Ford GT40 Roaring Forties Replica

Here is what the finished car should look like (only in red, with white racing stripes)




The Begining:

Here is how we started:

Note that we installed the pexiglass for the headlights and side windows and side makers (blinkers) already when I took these pictures.



Here is a shot of the rear with the sheet metal top installed (in between the two scoops)


The original front uprights


The Front Porch - with just radiator laying down




Simba the cat - checking the interior


Front headlight and marker plexiglass drilled. This was a cool process, as we used "heli-coils" as the treading for the screws. These creates a steal threading so that you can use a screw over and over in the same hole without wearing out the threading (if you were to just try to drill directly into the fiberglass and then take the screws in and out several times, eventually the fiberglass would give way and you would no longer have threading)
 Basically the process is as follows: 
1: Drill small hole
2: Use supplied screw "tap" to create a thread in the fiberglass
3: screw in heli-coil (use "lock-tight" for premanant bond)
4: break tab in base of heli-coil
5: use disired screw as many times as you wish


Richard working on the interior of door





Rear aluminum inserts, drilled and secured using counter-sunk screws




Rear end (under rear clip) - early stages, with uprights attached




Shot of the wheelwell covering for the head light assembly


Interior with seats, dash and steering wheel installed

 
 
Door Panels Installed


Exterior shots - Summer 2012




Radiator mounted

Gas Cap and fuel lines (to gas tanks) installed




Rear Section of Roll Cage Installed

Adhering two pieces of the dash together (these will allow for the air to defrost the windshield)


Wiper mount (and motor) and washer fluid sprayer installed